How to Really Grow Strawberries in a Rain Gutter System Just Like This!
Due to our last super popular post we thought it best to create another post helping you all out my friends.  This is the How to Really Grow Strawberries in a Rain Gutter System.

The truth a home grown ripened Strawberry is almost impossible to beat and eating straight from the plant is well, more than down right tasty!

Below are the steps to getting you started.

1. Cut a piece of gutter, 4 1/2 feet long, using tin snips for metal gutters and a PVC handsaw or circular saw for PVC rain gutters.

2. Measure and mark 27 inches from either end of the gutter to find the center. Make two more marks 9 inches from each end of the gutter to mark the appropriate spacing for planting three strawberry plants.

3. Slide metal end caps onto the gutter and crimp the edges to the gutter with a pair of pliers. Apply a bead of pure silicone caulk to the inside end-cap seam; allow the silicone to fully dry before filling the gutter with potting soil. For PVC end caps, apply PVC glue to the end cap and gutter and press firmly in place; allow the PVC glue to fully dry before filling the gutter with soil.

4. Lay the section of gutter face down on a flat working surface. Measure and mark drainage holes onto the bottom of the gutter every 4 to 6 inches. Drill the drainage holes with a quarter-inch drill bit and power drill.

5. Place the gutter in a location that provides at least 6 hours of full sun per day before filling the gutter with soil and planting the strawberries. Elevate gutters on flat stones, bricks or landscape pavers to allow proper drainage, if placing the planter on a flat surface. You can also mount the gutter planter to a fence, deck railing or the home's siding using rope or mounting brackets to elevate the plants from the ground.

6. Fill the gutter within a half-inch of the top lip with potting soil, scooping the potting soil into the gutter by hand or with a gardening trowel. Trim the roots of the strawberry transplant to 6 inches with scissors to make planting easier. Plant the strawberries in early spring; you can also plant in autumn where winters are milder.

7. Plant three strawberry transplants in the gutters, using the three spacing marks as a guide. Plant the transplants so that the crown is just above the soil level and the top roots are at least a quarter-inch below the soil. A buried crown will rot if the strawberries are planted too deeply and the roots will dry out if planted too shallowly. Alternatively, you can sow seeds one-quarter inch below the soil. Sow four or five seeds in each planting space, then thin back to leave the healthiest plant when seedlings emerge.

8. Pinch off all of the flower blossoms on June-bearing plants as they appear for the first year of growth. Pinch the flowers until the end of June for ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries, then allow flowers to develop and produce fruit; this promotes root growth and a greater crop yield. Remove runners in gutter containers because the growing area is not large enough to support the additional plants.

9. Water the strawberry plants with a garden watering can. Strawberries require about 1 1/2 inches of water per week. Fertilize June-bearing strawberry plants twice a year: once very lightly when plant growth begins then again after the plant develops fruit. Ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberry plants prefer consistent light fertilizing about once every two weeks.



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